Neil Gresham
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Training Programmes
Personalised Responses and Training Programmes

1. Personalised Responses

Neil Gresham is available for personal contact to answer any questions you may have on training or climbing. His rate for this work is £70 per hour (which can be broken down into units of 15 minutes). This could be an ideal way to steer your climbing back on track, without the need for a 1-to-1 coaching session or a full-blown training programme. If you would like to proceed then please send your questions to Neil; he will then provide you with a quote and bank details so you can make a transfer.

2. Personalised Training Programmes

Having difficulty fitting climbing in with work? Struggling to make sense of all the jargon and conflicting information on training? Do you feel that you’ve stopped improving and that your sessions at the wall have stagnated? If so, it sounds like you may be in need of a personalised training programme from Britain’s most experienced climbing coach. A targeted training plan doesn’t have to remove the enjoyment from climbing; it will freshen up your sessions and make sure you receive the maximum value from your time.

Full training programme prices:
  • 8 weeks £40
  • 12 weeks £50
  • 16 weeks £60
Fingerboard training programme prices:
  • 8 weeks £30
  • 12 weeks £40
Fingerboard Training
Photo: Karl Gregory
How the service works

If you would like to proceed, please download:
Pre-training Questionnaire.pdf

Copy the form and email it to .

We will then forward bank details to you, so you can make a payment before Neil sets to work on your programme. Please allow 2 weeks between your initial contact and the start date of the programme. After receiving the programme, you can ask Neil any relevant questions, included in the price.

Training Programmes

In 1996, Neil helped a climber from London who had very little training time and who had sustained a recent shoulder injury from another sport, to lead trad E1 within a year of starting climbing.

In 2003 he set a programme for an accomplished E5 trad climber to redpoint his first sport 8a. The programme was centred around specific improvements in strength and power endurance.

In 2010 Neil helped a climber who had climbed E3, and who had suffered a minor back injury the previous year, to return to climbing and better his previous level within 8 months. The programme was based on building an initial foundation of strength and then targeting specific areas of technique and skill.

Neil has set in-depth programmes for British Junior team members, Leah Crane, Kitty Wallace, Catrin Rose and Aidan Roberts, all of whom made notable improvements under his guidance. He has also set programmes for elite seniors such as John Dunne, James Pearson and Gaz Parry, all who made gains under his watch.

Pre-conditions for acceptance of personalised training programmes

In order for you to be legible for a personalised training programme you must meet the following requirements:

  • You must have been climbing for over two years.
  • You must be able to lead F6a routes onsight and boulder V2.
  • You must be free from injury (apart from exceptionally minor tweaks, which you feel confident that you can train with.)
  • You must not be suffering from any relevant illness or medical conditions.
  • You must be able to train regularly (at least 4 times a week) during the allocated training period.
  • You must accept our terms and conditions *

* In principle, you must accept that climbing injuries can occur at any time and that the author of your training programme can not be held responsible for any injuries incurred.

You must have access to the following training facilities.

  • Modern bouldering wall with a variety of different angles.
  • Fingerboard.
  • Pull-up bar (or jugs on fingerboard)
  • Campus board (preferably with kick-board) - elites only.
  • Circuit board (or bouldering wall where you can make up circuits) - (N/a for boulderers)
  • Modern leading wall with a variety of different angles (N/a for boulderers)
  • Light dumbbells and or / therabands.
  • Gymnasts rings (preferable but not essential)