Neil Gresham
HOME > ICE WORLD TOUR > 
Ice World Tour
Repentance WI 6 and Captain Hook M10, Cogne
The Valleys of Cogne and Valsaverenche in the Italian Alps are well known destinations for ice and mixed climbing. For me, the must-do classic of the region is the ice route Repentance Super WI6. This 3-pitch monster is renowned for having difficult chandeliers to negotiate and for collapsing without warning! The weather had been ominously warm all week and Ian Parnell and I were forced to amuse ourselves with some drytooling at the nearby Haston Cave while we waited for a freeze. I managed a first-redpoint ascent of 'Captain Hook' an upside down and acrobatic M10, but this felt like a small deal compared to our outstanding objective for the trip. The thermometer dipped to minus one on the last day and with much trepidation, we decided to go for it. It transpired that conditions were the least of our worries during the ascent as we nearly came to blows with a crazed French Guide who tried to push in front of us and threatened to pull our ropes! In the end, he apologised at the top of the route and as we abseiled off, I wondered if the name of this mythical route had caused him to take a rain check!
Captain Hook M10
Captain Hook M10
Photo: Ian Parnell
Repentance WI 6
Repentance WI 6
Photo: Ian Parnell