Neil Gresham
Rock World Tour
China 2005
Lunar-tick, F8a, Moonhill (1st ascent)
It was a privilege to explore the mountainous region near Yangshuo in South East China before the secret reached the rest of the climbing world. Prior to our trip, the area had received a visit from the late US activist Todd Skinner; but Seb Grieve, Grant Farquhar and I were shocked at the number of premium lines that remained for the picking. This is the most dramatic example of limestone Karst landscape I have ever encountered, with giant arches and towers looming in the mist, intertwined by rivers and endless rows of padi-fields. We put up new sport routes on the immaculate leaning wall of White Mountain and the jaw-dropping, stalactite-infested arch of Moonhill. For me the route of the trip was ‘Lunar-tick’ 8a, an upside down space-walk into the centre of the arch at Moonhill, which I snatched in the fading light on the last day of the trip. The town of Yangshuo itself is a vibrant feast for the senses and the Karst bar was the venue of choice for partying the night away after a hard days climbing. As far as climbing destinations go, it doesn’t get much better than this.
1st ascent of Lunar-tick 8a, Moonhill, China
1st ascent of Lunar-tick 8a, Moonhill, China
Photo: Gresham Col.